Principles

SERENE

  • Solid
  • Equalized
  • Redundant
  • Efficient
  • No Extension
    • If one placement fails, system shouldn't shock-load remaining pieces

Anchor Types

1. Sliding X

CleanShot 2025-10-19 at 21.41.38@2x 1 ### Advantages - Self-equalizing - Can be extended longer (Good when you only have short slings) - Good for top-rope setups (rope moves around easily) ### Disadvantages - Can be too long - Large range of motion - If one side fails, that side may slide all the way down -> Shock Load (❌ Fails – No Extension) - **CRITICAL**: Must twist the middle slings to prevent catastrophic failure ### Key Notes - Twisting all slings works but makes sliding harder - Not twisting may be catastrophic if one side gives way (whole system may fail) - Tying a knot at each placement loop reduces extension CleanShot 2025-10-19 at 21.49.16@2x ## 2. Big Fat Knot (BFK) Pasted image 20251019214649 ### Setup 1. Pull two strands from each placement 2. Tie a clove hitch on the first placement to prevent sling tab from sliding 3. For easier handling: take middle strands, tie a loop, insert carabiner first, then tie knot 4. Attach master carabiner to the knot ### Advantages - Simple to construct - Minimal range of motion - Short (usually beneficial) - Perfect for 3 placements - Can attach to shelf by clipping each strand (Optimal to place GriGri here) ### Disadvantages - Not self-equalizing (pre-equalized) - Difficult to tie with >3 placements (requires 2n strands where n = number of placements) ### Key Notes - Ensure knot is equalized toward the direction of the seconding climber ## 3. Hybrid System (4-5 Placements) ### Method - Create sliding X mini-anchors for pairs of placements - Connect mini-anchors with other placements using Quad or BFK - **Example (4 placements)**: Tie sliding X for 2 placements, then connect with remaining 2 placements via BFK CleanShot 2025-10-19 at 21.56.30@2x [This is an example showing a sliding X with a Quad](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Dx2w358rWY) (albeit only 3 placements) # General Placement Notes ## Placement Strategy - **Preferred**: Place in different cracks - **Minimum**: Space placements far apart if using same crack ## Top-Rope Specific Setup - Extend anchor with sling if needed (prevents rope rubbing on ledge) - **Carabiners**: Use lockers (non-lockers acceptable if gates face away from rock) - **Number of placements**: - Multi-pitch: 3 placements sufficient if rock quality is good - Top-rope: 4-5 placements recommended - Prefer a **self equalizing** anchor as the climber may pull the anchor from different directions ## Footnotes

Not covered here

References